Disclaimer: this video/review was not sponsored by Zelos or any other entity.
Video
Review
The Zelos Helmsman 10th Anniversary Limited Edition marks a significant milestone for a brand that has steadily risen beyond its microbrand origins to a well-recognized name in the affordable watch market, and broader watch market too. Celebrating a decade of operation, Zelos, known for its enthusiastic approach to watch design, launched this model in a limited series of just 300 units. This release highlights the attributes that have endeared Zelos to its followers: the use of exotic materials, vibrant colors, bold designs, and remarkable value for money.
Priced at approximately $650 USD, the Helmsman 10th Anniversary sold out within minutes of its release, underscoring the brand’s popularity and the high demand among collectors. As one of the fortunate few to own one of these watches, I am excited to share what makes this particular model a fitting tribute to Zelos’s ten-year journey. This watch not only celebrates the brand’s past achievements but also showcases the distinctive flair that Zelos watches are celebrated for, offering enthusiasts a piece that is both a statement and a collector’s item.
Let’s check it out!
Case
The Helmsman showcases a meticulously crafted case that measures 39.5mm in diameter, 46.5mm lug to lug, and 12.5mm in height including the crystal, with a 20mm lug width. Constructed entirely from Grade 2 Titanium, the case is finished to a very high standard. From my experiences over the last few years, I believe that Zelos case finishing has improved drastically in the last 12-18 months.
dding to its durability, the case is treated with a 1200Hv hardness coating, significantly enhancing its resistance to scratches and scuffs, which is ideal for a case made entirely of Grade 2 Titanium. The design features include a midcase that has subtly relieved with hollowed sides, with an inner media-blasted finish and brushed finishing on the edges. A distinctive, wide bevel runs seamlessly along the entire case and through the lugs, showcasing excellent polishing and a smooth transition between polished and brushed finishes.
The polished fixed bezel holds a box sapphire crystal with ample anti-reflective coating, providing a clear view of the dial. The case also features two 6mm screw-down crowns that are both signed and lumed, offering an excellent grip and easy operation; the second crown at the 2 o’clock position controls the bi-directional inner bezel which does have a subtle tactile feedback.
Turning the watch over reveals a solid titanium case-back, screwed securely into the mid-case, and affirming the watch’s 200m water resistance. Overall, I love the design of this case – it is simple yet interesting, with great use of finishing techniques and materials. And I think the proportions are excellent, and well designed to suit a wide variety of wrist sizes. Also, who knew that offering two lumed crowns on a watch would make me giddy like a kid in a candy store?
Dial
The dial of the Zelos Helmsman 10th Anniversary Limited Edition is a vivid testament to the brand’s design evolution over the past decade, showcasing a matured and easily recognizable design language that cleverly balances boldness with refinement. Zelos has continually embraced experimental designs while adapting to the diverse preferences of its growing fan-base, managing to offer variations that maintain the brand’s distinct DNA while appealing to both bold and conservative tastes.
This particular model leans towards the bolder side, celebrating Zelos’s 10th anniversary with an eye-catching statement. Its Zelos’ 10th birthday and it wants to make a statement. And what a beautiful and excitement statement it is! The dial features a heat-treated Ti-mascus (a titanium variant of the folded steel that is typically referred to as Damascus steel) that transforms under lighting, displaying an array of colors from deep blues and purples to vibrant oranges, creating a dynamic visual effect. This colorful canvas is not just visually striking but also technically impressive, revealing intricate textures that shift with the light.
Functionally, the dial is well-equipped for legibility. The minute markers appear slightly recessed and filled lumed, complementing the polished applied indices that include Arabic numerals at the 6, 9, and 12 positions. These indices are robustly lumed, ensuring clear visibility in various lighting conditions. The Zelos logo is tactfully applied below the 12 o’clock index, with “Helmsman 10 Years” printed in yellow above the 6 o’clock index, adding a celebratory touch.
An interesting feature is the date window at 3 o’clock, which subtly integrates into the dial without a border and features a dark background with a yellow “10” to mark the anniversary. The hands of the watch are intricately designed, skeletonized yet filled with lume, ensuring they are not just artistic but functional. The seconds hand is distinguished by a painted yellow tip with a lumed segment, enhancing its visibility.
The watch’s dial transitions from being spectacular and vibrant in certain lighting to almost black and subdued in others, making it surprisingly versatile despite its bold appearance. This duality is framed by a mirror-polished rehaut that slopes into a blackened meteorite inner rotating bezel insert with lumed markers, underlined by a subtle 120-click bi-directional bezel.
Lume
Zelos has long stood out in the micro-brand watch sector, particularly noted for its pioneering approach to lume application and performance. A few years ago, when exceptional lume was not as commonplace among micro-brands as it is today, Zelos distinguished itself by offering lume quality and design that competed favorably against much more expensive watches and often outshining them (pun intended). This was a significant achievement, especially as larger brands like Seiko (who were once the best in this category) scaled back on their lume quality, thereby leaving a niche that Zelos adeptly filled, appealing strongly to budget-conscious collectors looking for outstanding lume performance.
The Helmsman Limited Edition exemplifies this focus on high-quality lume design. Almost every element on the dial, including a few on the case, features luminosity. The inner rotating bezel sports all lumed markers, using a mix of C3 and BGW9 Super LumiNova, known for their brightness. The hour indices and hands are liberally filled with lume, and uniquely, even the printed minute markers on the dial are lumed. Additionally, the watch includes an uncommon feature: lumed screw-down crowns!
In terms of lume performance and longevity, the Helmsman maintains excellent visibility throughout the night. Although it does not outperform every Zelos watch that I’ve reviewed so far, the performance is more than adequate even for the most demanding of lume junkies like myself. But to be fair, in my comparative timelapse, the Christopher Ward Twelve Ti and the Horizon Nemo slightly outperform in terms of lasting brightness. That said, the Helmsman’s lume is nonetheless impressive and holds up well against other competitors in its price range.
Movement
The Helmsman is equipped with the Miyota 9015 automatic movement, produced by the Citizen group. While I have previously expressed reservations about this movement (mostly to do with the uni-directional rotor and its noticeable spinning sound), my extended experience with various movements in this price range has significantly altered my perspective. After handling dozens of watches with the Miyota 8 Series, Seiko NH35/4R35, Seiko 6R15, Seiko 6R35, Sellita SW200, and ETA 2824, I now hold a strong preference for the Miyota 9015, including its Swiss Made counterpart, the LJP G100 (which Zelos recently used in the Zelos Eagle 2 Ti that I reviewed).
Although the Miyota 9015 may not achieve the accuracy of a finely regulated ETA2824 or SW200, nor offer the low replacement costs associated with Seiko movements, its reliability stands out. I’ve yet to encounter any issues with Miyota 9 series movements, a personal track record that strongly influences my preference for them over both Swiss and Japanese alternatives mentioned above. In the Helmsman 10th Anniversary, the typically audible rotor noise is subdued, and the watch maintains good accuracy, with deviations within single digits per day. Given these factors, especially considering the watch’s price segment, the choice of the Miyota 9015 movement is more than reasonable, and reinforces the value delivered by it.
On The Wrist
The Helmsman presents a comfortable fit with its 39.5mm diameter and 46.5mm lug-to-lug width, making it suitable for a broad range of wrist sizes, including my 6.75″ wrist. The watch combines bold presence with compact dimensions, offering a balanced aesthetic that caters to various preferences. Its 12.5mm height is adequately sculpted to appear less imposing than one might expect, achieving an ideal blend of elegance and robustness that contributes to its overall appeal.
Weighing in at a light 53g (62g with my Delugs Rubberized Leather Strap), the watch enhances wear ability, particularly for those who appreciate a lighter timepiece. Zelos has equipped the Helmsman with a high-quality FKM rubber strap that features a hybrid design of textile and rubber, complemented by a uniquely designed titanium buckle. The watch feels great on the included rubber strap, but I might switch it out for a darker and more muted strap going forward.
Overall, I think the Helmsman will meet the expectations of a wide audience due to its versatile case size and thoughtful design details. The comfort and adaptability it offers suggest that it will be well-received across various wrist sizes without any notable issues regarding wear-ability. I know that a lot of owners would love a bracelet made for this watch, and maybe Zelos will get around to that if they ever do a larger series using this new case design.
Wrapping Up
I’ll wrap this up quickly – it’s clear that this watch embodies the essence of what has driven the brand’s success over the last decade. Zelos has consistently been known for its use of high-quality materials, innovative designs, and exceptional value, and the Helmsman 10th Anniversary LE is no exception. This model features a very well finished titanium case, uses exotic dial materials, incorporates bold design elements, and includes generous applications of lume, all executed with notable quality and great attention to detail. Moreover, the price point remains competitively appealing. For their 10th anniversary, Zelos set out to fulfill the expectations of their enthusiasts and admirers, and they have achieved this goal effectively. Or as the cool Gen Z kids say – Zelos understood the assignment.
