Disclaimer: this video/review was not sponsored by Christopher Ward or any other entity.
Video
Review
Christopher Ward has evolved significantly over the past two decades, transitioning from a brand that once might have required an introduction, to a well-known player in the watch market. This British brand, which has certainly outgrown its “micro-brand” label, gained considerable attention with the release of the Bel Canto, an hourly chiming watch. This model demonstrated that exotic complications and sophisticated design aesthetics could be offered at more accessible price points, contributing significantly to the brand’s rapid rise in popularity and deservedly winning the GPHG 2023 “Petite Aiguille” Prize.
The release of the Twelve marked another significant chapter for Christopher Ward, though it received mixed reviews compared to the universally lauded Bel Canto. In my opinion, several factors contributed to this: the crowded integrated bracelet sports watch category, the challenge of creating an original design amidst the towering legacy (and disproportionate amount of hype) of Gerald Genta’s iconic creations for Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, and some criticisms that the Twelve bore a resemblance to Czapek’s Antarctique. However, I think these comparisons often overlook the fact that majority of integrated bracelet watches tend to share similar design cues, with differences being subtly nuanced. Moreover, these disputes seem less relevant given that Adrian Buchmann, head of product design (and joined in 2015) at Christopher Ward, who also contributed to the Czapek design, has openly discussed the distinct inspirations and target markets for each design.
Further, it appears that Christopher Ward head-of-product design Adrian Buchmann and Czapek co-founders (Harry Guhl in particular) have a long history of working together on various brands, and echoes of Christopher Ward design DNA can be seen in brands like Chronotechna and Sequent.
Back to the topic at hand – my anticipation to review the Twelve Titanium, especially given my affinity for Sellita SW300 movements and titanium materials was quite high. I’m a big fan of the brand, and I love how the Twelve turned out, even if it may not be as appealing and unique as the Bel Canto. Handling the Aurora Green variant, priced at $1895 USD, confirmed that the watch lived up to my expectations, blending Christopher Ward’s focus on going above and beyond in delivering high quality watches at fantastic prices.
Let’s check it out!
Case
I measured the Grade 2 titanium case to be 40mm wide, with the crown extending the width slightly over 42mm. The case spans about 45mm from top to bottom without the bracelet and reaches an effective span of 50.5mm with it, akin to a regular watch case having a 47-48mm lug to lug width, while the case height is a sleek 9.2mm. The titanium case is a showcase of masterful finishing techniques, blending brushed, polished, and subtly integrated sandblasted sections that enhance light play and visual contrast, adding depth and detail that are uncommon at this price point.
Christopher Ward’s commitment to excellence in case finishing is evident over the last 2-3 years, with a level of craftsmanship that competes favorably against much pricier watches. Mike France, co-founder, has stated that they share a case supplier with Tudor, and from my experience the execution of Christopher Ward cases often surpasses that of Tudor’s more traditional designs, which typically feature less polished and intricate finishes. I say that as someone who currently owns two Tudor watches and has owned a half dozen more in the last 2 years. So please don’t pelt stones at me just yet!
The Twelve gets its name from its distinct 12-sided fixed bezel, a nod to iconic industrial designs like Gerald Genta’s Royal Oak and the ensuing watches it inspired, such as the Zenith Defy. A flat sapphire crystal, generously coated with anti-reflective treatment, ensures a clear view of the dial. Along the sides, polished flanks stretch seamlessly into the bracelet, a simple yet effectively executed design that showcases the attention to detail in its finishing. The crown guard system mirrors the case’s finishing techniques and houses a 5.5mm signed screw-down crown that is easy to manipulate.
On the reverse, a 12-sided screwed-in case-back aligns perfectly with the bezel and features a sapphire exhibition window that reveals the Sellita SW300 movement within. This watch boasts a 100m water resistance rating. Overall, while the case design may not break new ground in the genre, it achieves its goal of celebrating Gerald Genta’s legacy through high-quality craftsmanship and transparent homage (I must indicate my use of the term in its original form, and not the interpretation that allows clones with different logos to pass off as being respectful) to its inspirations. The Twelve by Christopher Ward is an embodiment of accessibility, quality, and respectful acknowledgment of its design roots, executed with an attention to detail that elevates it within its class.
Dial
The Twelve Titanium in Aurora Green, along with its Astral Blue and Nebula Purple variants, presents a series of fume dials that are strikingly dynamic beyond what initial renders and website images can convey. In person, these dials reveal a complexity and architectural depth that is not fully appreciated until viewed under a loupe or macro lens. The design ingenuity of Will Brackfield and Adrian Buchmann shines through in the watch’s ability to exhibit such depth within a slim profile of approximately 9mm, achieved through skillful layering, nuanced color gradients, and sophisticated texturing – also a testament to the slimness of the Sellita SW300 movement perhaps.
Under a loupe or macro lens this dial truly impresses – the dial texture captivates with a 3D motif resembling (to me) a sequence of Mayan and South American temples/pyramids, cleverly mirroring the brand’s twin flags logo. This feature, alongside a brilliantly executed fume effect that intensifies from the center and fades into a black raised chapter ring, enhances the dial’s depth and legibility. The chapter ring is clearly marked with large blocks for every five-minute interval and smaller ticks for individual minutes, tucked in neatly behind by towering, multi-faceted hour markers that combine brushed and polished finishes and are generously filled with lume.
The watch’s branding is meticulously applied below the double index at 12 o’clock, requiring precise alignment and a multi-part application process, contributes to an aesthetically pleasing and balanced dial. The printing, including the word ‘Chronometer’ above the 6 o’clock position, is crisp and easily legible. The date display at 6 o’clock stands out with its symmetry, well-defined border and color-matched date wheel, which enhances readability without disrupting the dial’s aesthetic. And to further please, the dial has a shorter version of a 6 o’clock hour marker (that is also lumed!) under the date window – more balance, more lume, more awesome.
The hour index design extends to the hands, where the hour and minute hands feature large lume plots and exquisite finishing that surpass expectations for watches in this price range, while the seconds hand maintains a simpler brushed finish without lume. This dial, rich in detail and finishing, might demand a closer look to be fully appreciated, offering an engaging and enduring visual experience for long-term enjoyment and appreciation. The recipe is excellent, the ingredients are high quality, and the resulting meal dial is delicious.
Lume
The Twelve Ti demonstrates the brand’s consistent delivery of excellent lume, which is a standout feature in their sports watch lineup. This model comes equipped with deep hour markers and hands that are generously with Grade X1 C1 Super LumiNova. The glow from these elements is notably bright and sustains throughout the night, ensuring that legibility is maintained under all conditions.
In my video, I include a timelapse that pits the Twelve Titanium against well-regarded micro-brands like the Zelos Helmsman 10th Anniversary, Horizon Nemo, and Selten Salvage. The Christopher Ward piece ranks highly in this lineup, showcasing excellent brightness and longevity of its lume.
Movement
The Twelve Ti is powered by a COSC Certified Sellita SW300-1 movement. This movement belongs to the Sellita SW300 / ETA2892 family, renowned for their reliability and performance, and is perhaps my favorite off-the-shelf Swiss automatic movement on the market today. By opting for the COSC grade, Christopher Ward ensures that each movement is rigorously tested by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres under various conditions to guarantee its accuracy.
The SW300-1 operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and offers a substantial power reserve of 56 hours. Its relatively slim profile, with a height of only 3.6 mm, allows for inclusion in sleeker watch designs, a subtle but noticeable difference when compared to watches equipped with the thicker Sellita SW200-1 (like the steel variants of the Twelve). This movement’s pedigree is further established by its use in high-end models from other prestigious brands like IWC (Ingenieur 3239, Aquatimer) and Omega, often commanding much higher prices.
In light of this movement’s reliability and performance, coupled with its integration into an affordably priced package, there are no reservations about its value or suitability in the Twelve Ti. So I have absolutely no complaints about this movement, its grade, and the price of the overall package that it is a part of. Short of shipping it with an in-house SH21 caliber, I think this is a perfect choice.
On The Wrist
This watch offers a notably comfortable wearing experience thanks to its compact dimensions, sleek profile, and lightweight design. On my 6.75″ wrist, the watch feels exceptionally balanced, weighing just 85g (for contrast my Black Bay 41 Monochrome weighs 149g), which effectively feels weightless once worn. The bracelet, although simple and understated compared to more elaborate designs like those of the Minase Divido or the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, matches the high standards of the case in terms of finish. It bears a more humble design reminiscent of the Tissot PRX, yet executed with superior craftsmanship.
The bracelet is equipped with a typical butterfly style clasp lacking micro-adjustments, which could be a drawback for some. However, Christopher Ward has recognized this and recently introduced a micro-adjustment clasp in their Twelve X model, with plans to extend this feature to other models in the lineup. This anticipated update could significantly enhance the versatility and appeal of the bracelet.
Currently, the fit of the bracelet can be finely tuned using the provided half links, making it adequately comfortable for daily wear. If I were to make a purchase decision today, particularly given my preference for adjustable straps influenced by practical needs (partly due to my high sodium diet, I suppose?), I would opt for the rubber strap version until the new clasp design becomes available.
Wrapping Up
When I approached Christopher Ward to loan me the Twelve Titanium in Aurora Green for review, my intentions were admittedly a bit self-serving. I have been keenly interested in the Twelve platform, especially the titanium series, and have been contemplating adding one to my own collection. The opportunity to spend some time with this watch was as much about satisfying my curiosity as it was about providing an objective review.
This hands-on experience only further intensified my desire to own one, confirming my initial attraction to the model. So I would take that as the final verdict, maybe. The wear-ability and appeal of the watch in person left a strong impression, reinforcing my decision to potentially even cough up the dough towards the Twelve X Ti, a decision further bolstered by my previous positive experiences with Christopher Ward’s in-house SH21 caliber.
Concluding this review, if you are considering the Christopher Ward Twelve Titanium as your next watch purchase, it’s likely you’ve done your research regarding its superior movement, the benefits of titanium, and the value it offers. Having experienced its qualities firsthand, I can affirm that it delivers exceptionally on all fronts. For anyone on the fence, my advice would be not to hesitate – this watch stands up to my scrutiny and is likely to exceed your expectations. You just have to decide which color to get, which seems like a pretty tough decision to make.
