Disclaimer: this video/review was not sponsored by Zelos or any other entity.
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Video
Review
Lately, my website has featured a number of Zelos watches, a trend driven by my growing appreciation for the brand and the support of its owner, Elshan Tang, who has kindly provided watches for me to review and photograph. Zelos has launched some outstanding models this year, such as the cerakote bezel Eagle 2 Ti ‘Arctic’, the forged carbon sapphire dial Spearfish Dualtime, and the Ti-mascus dial Helmsman 10th Anniversary LE. Notably, they’ve also refreshed their Nova platform with a 37mm size, offering stunning CNC guilloche dials and an intriguing version with a tantalum case – pieces definitely worth exploring if you haven’t already.
Today, I’m excited to delve into the latest from Zelos – the titanium Thresher GMT with a World Timer bezel. This model represents a significant overhaul, almost revitalizing the entire Thresher design DNA with a new, highly functional complication that adds substantial value. The particular variant I’ve been testing features a chalk grey dial finished in automotive paint and a glossy enamel coating, which gives it a very interesting aesthetic with excellent legibility. Pricing for this model starts at $629 USD, with the premium Damascus Titanium case option priced around $850 USD.
Let’s check it out!
Case
The Thresher Worldtimer marks a significant evolution from its predecessor, which was known for its ruggedly handsome angular case design, and a hefty aesthetic that complemented its 500m water resistance. When I learned a new Thresher was in development, my anticipation was high, having regretted not purchasing the previous era GMT version. The redesigned Thresher, however, presents a total makeover that initially left me missing the old design’s robust character but soon won me over with its refined tool watch vibe, excellent finish, and superior comfort on the wrist. And this also gives me the unfortunate option of allowing myself to want to own both… because they’re different enough, right?
Measuring 40.6mm in diameter from 3 o’clock to 9 o’clock, with a 46.5mm lug-to-lug distance (extending to 50.5mm across the end links – PS: small wristed folk need not worry, the lugs curve down plenty and this extreme measurement is not equivalent to a lug to lug width), and a 12.6mm thickness tapering from a 20mm lug width to 18mm at the 21mm clasp, the case proportions are calculatedly balanced. Crafted entirely from titanium and further reinforced with a 1200Hv hardness coating, the case’s quality is indicative of what I believe to be substantial improvements in their case manufacturing and finishing abilities this year. The overall 12.6mm thickness is deceptively slim, attributing nearly 4.75mm to the bezel and a vintage-style domed sapphire crystal which significantly reduces the perceived bulk.
I find the case design to be truly striking, featuring broad bevels along the mid-case that further soften its visual mass. An innovative design element is the dramatic, yet smooth transition that the side bevel of the case makes at the lugs, blending hard and soft lines in a way I’ve rarely seen. The overall design and significantly curved down style of the lugs not only adds visual interest but also enhances ergonomics, making the watch feel more organic and comfortable on the wrist.
The bezel is user-friendly with wide knurling, a bi-directional 48-click mechanism, a lumed World Timer insert, and a sapphire cap, providing excellent functionality and aesthetics. The city disc on the bezel insert is a bit crowded as is the case on any world timer watch, but I didn’t find this one to be difficult to read at all.
A 6.15mm screw-down titanium crown, adorned with the brand’s logo engraved into its top and a bezel matched knurling, complements the case’s usability. The titanium case-back includes an exhibition window, showcasing the internal mechanics and maintaining a water resistance of 200m – more than sufficient for 99.9% of our practical purposes, despite being a decrease from the previous model’s 500m rating. So, to the one person who wanted to strap their Thresher GMT World Timer to a robot for a 500m dive, I think you’ll have to sit this one out, buddy.
Overall, the Thresher’s case design is a testament to meticulous attention to detail and a bold exploration of design. The watch embodies what Zelos describes as “military ruggedness with modern materials” perfect for everyday adventurers. Yet, I think “refined military ruggedness” might be more appropriate because this design feels mature, and it feels like the product of many iterations and thoughtful evolution. This watch not only meets the functional demands of a tool watch but does so with an aesthetic that manages to capture visual interest, which is typically hard to achieve with a tool watch that is limited to primarily brushed and matte finishing styles. So, well done Elshan and team!
Dial
The Zelos Thresher GMT World Timer is offered in an impressive array of six dial configurations, including a special edition with a lumed forge carbon dial and a Ti-mascus (Damascus Titanium) Damascus steel case, uniquely paired with a rubber strap. The other variants exhibit a surprising restraint in design relative to typical releases, with options ranging from the eye-catching mother of pearl bezel and dial combination to the more subdued ‘Dusk’ gradient black to grey dial. I also get the feeling that the Burgundy dial will age very well as it appears to be a tastefully executed burgundy color with a subtle GMT hand color.
My focus is on the Chalk Grey variant, which features a unique dial painted with automotive paint and layered with enamel. This treatment gives the dial a subtle glisten reminiscent of a car’s finish, a finishing choice I hope Zelos continues to explore in future models because I think it looks fantastic. The outermost portion of the dial incorporates a bi-color chapter ring that serves as both a 24-hour scale for the GMT hand and a reference scale for the World Timer bezel, managing to be legible without overwhelming the dial’s real estate. As an owner of my long time GMT grail watch, the Rolex GMT Master II, I keep wishing that my GMT bezel were legible at night. Meanwhile, Zelos is out here adding lume to the bezel and the 24 hour chapter ring. Just one among many reasons to love Zelos and their attention to detail, and generous use of lume.
Progressing inward, the minute track is printed with luminous paint, displaying bold square markers for increments of five that contrast against narrow ticks for excellent legibility. The real highlight, however, are the Lumicast applied hour numerals, large and bold, made from ceramic infused lume which not only enhances the dial’s aesthetic but also its functionality. These numerals are incredibly potent when properly executed, though I’ve encountered rare occasions with watches where similar materials fell short, such as the Atelier Holgur Fromand.
At 6 o’clock, the date window is seamlessly integrated with a dial-matched date wheel, a testament to Zelos’s attention to aesthetic coherence. The enamel’s liquid-like finish around the date window adds an attractive touch that I much prefer to a solid framed date window. The hands of the watch, painted black with large white lume-filled plots for the hours and minutes, and a distinctive yellow lumed triangle on the GMT hand, ensure excellent readability against the color-matched 24-hour chapter ring. The seconds hand, that continues the design theme of the hour and minute hands, has a narrow yet potent lumed plot too.
Operating this true GMT with a World Timer bezel is more straightforward than it may appear: set the GMT hand to a reference time zone using the 24-hour ring, adjust the local hour hand as needed, and align the World Timer bezel with the GMT hand to instantly read the time across the different countries marked on the bezel. What most World Time watches and World Time bezels don’t account for, unfortunately, are the ugly nuances caused by Daylight Savings, but that is a philosophical debate for another day.
Overall, the dial on this watch is exceptional in legibility, attractive in finish and styling, and practical in the information it conveys. I love the materials used, and the end product feels right. While this particular dial may not be the sexiest of the lot, the design is no less impressive and those that want a simpler aesthetic will find this to be particularly attractive.
Lume
Zelos is well renowned in the micro-brand sphere for its exceptional lume application and performance, consistently delivering longevity and brightness that set it apart from watches even many multiples in price. If you’re a follower of my Instagram or reader of my reviews, you might have noticed my fascination with the innovative technique of ceramic infused 3D luminous elements. This technique, which enhances visibility and durability, is becoming increasingly popular across the industry, featured in watches like the Tudor Black Bay Pro, Tudor Pelagos 39, Moser Govberg Pioneer Ti, Halios Seaforth IV Ti, Baltic Hermetique Glacier, etc.
When executed correctly, they tend to perform significantly better than the average liquid applied or filled Super LumiNova elements, at least most of the time. And they’re being manufactured by a few key players like Xenoprint AG with Globolight XP (Halios, Moser, Christopher Ward, Sinn, etc.), RC Tritec with Lumicast (Tudor, Baltic, Zelos, Fortis, IWC, etc.) and Invicon with HyCeram for a similar style of ceramic based lume infused with sapphire dials as seen on MING watches.
Zelos has embraced this advancement in lume technology, incorporating ceramic infused 3D lumed numerals on the Thresher GMT. The result is numerals that glow intensely bright and sustain their luminosity throughout the night, a significant improvement over traditional liquid applied or filled Super LumiNova elements. While the hands are equally impressive in maintaining brightness, the bezel, due to its smaller surface area and text apertures, fades a bit more quickly. The lumed chapter ring and the lumed minute track are easy to miss with the blistering glow of the hands and indices, but are certainly deserving of recognition too, particularly the minute track! The overall lume performance on this watch is exceptional, and while it may have taken a little while to see Zelos integrate this technology into their dials, they did as you would expect – they did it right and did it bright.
The design, featuring sculptural, border-less indices, not only enhances the aesthetic appeal but also contributes to the watch’s legibility in low light conditions. It’s a direction that Zelos has executed brilliantly, and I am eager to see more of this innovative lume application in their future releases. The combination of modern technology, modern materials and unique design makes the Thresher GMT a standout piece.
Movement
The Thresher is equipped with the Miyota 9075 movement, a true GMT caliber from the Citizen Group. This movement is part of Miyota’s 9 series of automatic calibers, known for their robustness and slim profile, making them versatile for a range of watch styles. One of the standout features of the 9075 is its true GMT functionality, which includes a local jumping hour feature. This allows travelers to adjust the local hour hand independently of the GMT hand and the minutes, making it incredibly practical for adjusting to new time zones without disrupting (interrupting the balance) the reference or home time.
Miyota rates the 9075 for an accuracy of -10 spd to +30 spd, though in my experience with the Thresher GMT, the movement consistently performs within single digits of positive deviation, suggesting that Zelos may have fine-tuned its regulation for enhanced accuracy. The movement also boasts a 42-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), featuring a smooth, hacking seconds function for precise time setting.Additionally, Zelos has customized the rotor, adorning it with a world map and the brand’s logo, which aptly reflects the globe-trotting spirit of this GMT watch paired with its world timer bezel.
On The Wrist & Bracelet
The Thresher GMT offers a wear-ability that feels tailor-made for my 6.75″ wrist, though its well-proportioned design comfortably accommodates a range of wrist sizes. The 40.6mm case diameter establishes a solid presence without feeling overpowering, thanks to a 12.6mm height that sits low and snug on the wrist. Of this height, nearly 5mm is attributed to the bezel and crystal, leaving a sleek 7mm mid-case and case-back, enhancing the watch’s streamlined profile.
The 46.5mm lug-to-lug distance is compact enough for smaller wrists, while larger wrists will appreciate the broader visual presence offered by the 50.5mm end link to end link distance (which gently curves down towards the wrist, to not impact smaller wrist sizes). The end links integrate seamlessly with the case, almost giving the illusion of an integrated bracelet, which is a testament to Zelos’s precision in design and manufacturing. Respect to Zelos for pulling off such a flawless case and bracelet design integration – this requires significant attention to detail and manufacturing tolerances to get right, and we’re all too accepting of brands that don’t do this correctly (modern Seiko & Grand Seiko, I’m looking at you).
The titanium bracelet itself is finely crafted (which should surprise you given the $629 overall price tag), with polished bevels and a soft satin finish that add an overall premium feel to the watch. It tapers from 20mm at the lugs to 18mm at the clasp, ending in a roughly 21mm Omega-style titanium clasp. While functional and robust, the clasp’s size feels a tad disproportionate to the sleek and refined case design. Despite this, the clasp has been significantly refined since its Zelos debut, to eliminate any sharp edges, contributing to a comfortable wear. It also features on-the-fly adjust-ability, a common and welcome feature across Zelos’s sports watches, challenging even higher-priced competitors on functionality and value (Grand Seiko – what’s your excuse again?).
In conclusion, the Zelos delivers an exceptional wearing experience, marred only slightly (and perhaps only aesthetically) by the larger clasp which is highly functional and well finished. Nonetheless, the overall quality of construction from case to clasp ensures a premium and enjoyable feel on the wrist. You cannot ask for more from a watch in this price range. Well, you can – and Zelos might actually give it to you – but maybe you shouldn’t. Just be happy, man.
Wrapping Up
There’s a lot to appreciate about the upgraded Zelos Thresher GMT. The case design stands out with originality and uniqueness rarely seen in this price bracket, highlighting Zelos’s capability to deliver innovative aesthetics. The finishing on the case, dial, and bracelet is superb, showcasing Zelos’s commitment to quality, especially notable in a titanium watch at this price point (with a titanium bracelet). The dial color of this particular variant, which utilizes automotive paint and enamel, might not be for the average Zelos buyer who prefers a more extravagant dial, but it creates a distinctive and appealing look that I personally find captivating yet subtle.
The lume functionality and design are exemplary, living up to my expectations in every aspect – from visibility to longevity. Comfort and wearability are also strong points of this watch, with well-proportioned and versatile design choices that extend to a well-integrated bracelet. If there were any critiques to note, it would be the clasp. The larger Omega-style clasp isn’t my favorite due to its bulkiness; however, in titanium, it is more manageable than expected. Overall, the Zelos Thresher GMT represents excellent value for its price of $629, aligning with Zelos’s reputation for providing high-quality watches at accessible prices. It’s a well-executed timepiece that offers much more than its cost would suggest, making it a watch easy to recommend to anyone looking to add a distinctive and functional true GMT watch to their collection.
