Disclaimer: this video/review was not sponsored by Selten or any other entity. Selten will be sending me a production unit when these watches start to ship. This is a review of two prototype units.
Selten M1 Moonphase Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/seltenwatch/m1-moonphase-automatic-watch-by-selten
Video
Review
If you’ve been following my reviews over the past few months, you’ve likely come across my thoughts on the Selten Series 00 Meteorite and the Selten Salvage Bronze. Selten, a relatively new microbrand based in Hong Kong, was founded by Leonardo Tsai, who has familial ties to dial manufacturing. This is evident from the brand’s intricate and captivating dial designs on both the Series 00 and Salvage models. The Series 00 debuted on Kickstarter in 2021, where it was successfully funded by around 750 backers who pledged roughly $275,000 USD. Following that, the Salvage was also a hit, raising over $80,000 USD from 175 backers. With these campaigns under its belt, Selten has demonstrated experience in navigating the challenges of Kickstarter and delivering on its promises.
Today, we’ll be examining Selten’s latest project, the M1 Moonphase, set to launch on Kickstarter on September 24, 2024. While I typically approach Kickstarter campaigns with caution due to the inherent risks of supporting new brands, Selten’s track record gives me a bit more confidence in both reviewing and recommending this project. The brand has shown an ability to follow through, and that’s an important factor when considering crowdfunding projects. I’ve also had a few conversations with Leonardo Tsai over the past few months, and his enthusiasm for watches and future ideas suggests that Selten is in it for the long haul. Nevertheless, I always encourage caution when engaging with any Kickstarter project. Make sure to gather all the information you need before pledging your hard-earned money.
The M1 Moonphase will be offered in two tiers – Regular and CNC Guilloche MoP. I will be looking at a Musou Black variant from the Regular line-up and a Black Mother of Pearl Guilloche (CNC) variant. Early bird Kickstarter pricing will be set at $599 and $699 USD, respectively, with eventual retail prices of $899 and $1099 USD. I’ll be looking at pre-production prototype units.
Let’s check them out!
Case
I measured the case at 38.7mm in diameter, 43.35mm from lug tip to lug tip, and 11.55mm in height, including both the case-back and crystal. Crafted entirely from stainless steel, the case features a well-executed combination of brushed and polished finishes, contributing to its visual appeal.
The design could be thought of as an evolution of the Series 00 case, but it has been improved in nearly every aspect. The mid-case, which measures approximately 5mm, has been noticeably slimmed down, giving the watch a sleeker profile. The lugs have a more distinct and traditional design, reminiscent of welded lugs, with polished bevels that are finished to a high standard. The tops and sides of the lugs are brushed, as is the rest of the mid-case, and the finishing throughout is excellent. The lug width is 20mm and features two sets of spring bars to accommodate straight and curved spring bars (fans of curved straps can rejoice!).
Where the Series 00 featured a tall, flat, radially brushed bezel, this model opts for a sculpted, high-polished concave bezel. This design change not only slims the watch visually but also helps minimize the appearance of scratches and dings, a practical and aesthetic improvement. The concave bezel design is similar to the one found on MING’s 22.01 GMT, and it seats a flat sapphire crystal with ample anti-reflective (AR) coating.
At the 3 o’clock position, the watch features a 6mm push-pull crown that is a significant upgrade from the Series 00. While the crown still tapers towards the end like the previous model, it is now much easier to grip and operate, and it appears to be larger, enhancing both functionality and user experience. The brand’s logo is relief-engraved on the top of the crown, adding a nice finishing touch.
Flipping the watch over reveals a beautifully designed case-back that echoes the concave bezel design. The outer section is concave with engraved text, while a sapphire exhibition window sits in the center, showcasing the movement. The case-back is secured to the mid-case by four screws, and the watch is rated for 50 meters of water resistance.
Overall, the case design, build quality, and finishing are a marked improvement over the Series 00. The thickness has been significantly reduced, and the concave bezel and case-back designs further enhance the streamlined feel. The use of polished surfaces, contrasted with brushed sections on the mid-case and lugs, adds visual depth and gives the watch a dressier appearance, establishing its identity as a more refined timepiece.
Dial
The M1 Moonphase offers five distinct dial configurations: three standard options, including the Musou Black, Aventurine, and Meteorite, along with two CNC Guilloche Mother of Pearl (MoP) dials in black and white. Each dial configuration brings its own unique aesthetic, but the Black Mother of Pearl Guilloche dial stands out for its unique and innovative design.
Starting with the CNC Guilloche Black Mother of Pearl dial, it’s worth noting that this is unlike anything I’ve encountered before. Selten deserves credit for pushing boundaries by carving a bold guilloche pattern into the delicate surface of black mother of pearl. Given the fragility of this material, achieving such a precise and intricate design seems like it would be a significant technical challenge. Even though this pattern is produced by CNC machining, the process shares some challenges with traditional hand-turned guilloche when applied to a delicate substrate like mother of pearl. Based on my macro photography, Selten has executed this with commendable precision, delivering clean and crisp patterns.
Surrounding the dial is a brushed stainless steel outer reference track with black circular markers for the hours and minutes. The hour markers are larger dots, while smaller dots represent the minutes. The brand’s name is discreetly positioned at the 6 o’clock mark, maintaining a minimalist approach to branding, which I personally find very appealing.
The rest of the dial is composed of black mother of pearl, featuring a broad swirling guilloche pattern radiating from the center of the moon-phase window just above 6 o’clock. The quality of the CNC engraving is impressive, especially at this price point. While I haven’t encountered guilloche dials on a mother of pearl base before, my experience with other guilloche dial watches has given me an appreciation for the technique. Although CNC machining can achieve near-perfect precision, I believe it still requires acknowledgment for its end result, particularly when the process and its relative value are transparent to the customer.
The interplay between the iridescent mother of pearl and the dynamic guilloche pattern creates a visually stunning effect. If you’re willing to dig into your pockets to pay the premium for this dial option, it offers a truly unique and captivating experience that I highly recommend.
What stands out most to me is the region around the moon-phase disc, where the CNC paths narrow, giving the illusion that the dial curves inward. This subtle 3D effect adds depth and intrigue to the dial design. The moon-phase itself is also exceptionally well executed, featuring a tantalum disc with a brushed finish. The transitions between the grey tantalum sections and the blacked-out moons are crisp and precise, further enhancing the overall aesthetic quality of the watch.
The next dial variant to consider is the Musou Black from Selten’s Regular series. Before diving into the specifics of the watch, it’s worth discussing what Musou Black actually is. In recent years, super-black coatings have pushed the limits of light absorption, with products like Vantablack absorbing an astonishing 99.965% of visible light. However, Vantablack is a chemically deposited coating developed by Surrey NanoSystems, and its commercial appears to be restricted, with H. Moser & Cie. being the only watchmaker currently using it.
Musou Black, on the other hand, is more accessible and available as a paint, adhesive sheet, or fabric. It absorbs 99.4% of visible light, and given that watchmakers must still cover the dial with a crystal, the difference in light absorption (0.565%) compared to Vantablack might actually be negligible in practical terms. Selten has opted to use Musou Black for the base layer of this dial, resulting in a strikingly dark, pitch-black aesthetic. Interestingly, unlike H. Moser & Cie., who use a curved sapphire crystal prone to reflections, Selten uses a flat sapphire crystal with plenty of anti-reflective (AR) coating, which I believe better preserves the intense blackness of the dial. This decision makes the Musou Black dial appear even more convincingly dark than Moser’s Vantablack creations. That said, the resemblance between the M1 Moonphase Musou Black and Moser’s Endeavour Vantablack Perpetual Moon is hard to ignore.
Selten further simplified the dial design by omitting the outer minute and hour marker ring that was on the guilloche MoP, creating an even more minimalist aesthetic, again reminiscent of Moser’s approach. The moon-phase window and disc are identical to the ones on the mother of pearl dial variant, providing a consistent visual experience across the M1 Moonphase models.
What stands out with the Musou Black dial is the texture of the dial surface itself. Despite its light-absorbing properties that might hint at a pale texture-less surface, the surface has a subtle, undulating fabric-like texture that becomes particularly noticeable near the edges of the moonphase window. This detail adds an extra layer of visual interest to an otherwise minimalist design. Selten has done a commendable job with this dial, even though the overall design feels somewhat familiar. While a Musou Black moonphase disc might have been a more fitting choice for this variant, the tantalum disc still looks excellent and maintains the watch’s luxurious feel.
As for the hands, all dial variants, including the Musou Black, feature polished hour and minute hands without a seconds hand. Given the lack of gradations on the dial, the omission of a seconds hand makes sense and prevents unnecessary clutter. The finishing on the hands is excellent, with no noticeable blemishes or dust, demonstrating good craftsmanship.
Both the Musou Black and the CNC Guilloche Mother of Pearl dials are well executed and utilize exciting materials that deliver a unique experience in this price range. While the mother of pearl guilloche dial feels more original and is my personal favorite, the Musou Black variant is undeniably remarkable in its execution, even if it pays homage to similar designs that came before it.
Movement
The Selten M1 Moonphase is powered by the Miyota 9015 movement, a personal favorite in this price range for its reliability and slim profile. Part of Miyota’s premium line, the 9015 stands out for being notably thinner than many Sellita, ETA and Seiko alternatives, which contributes to the watch’s overall slimness and wear-ability. This thinness is a key factor in why the M1 Moonphase manages to maintain such an elegant and refined profile on the wrist.
In this particular model, the 9015 movement has been cleverly modified to support a Moonphase complication. The gears typically used to control a 31-click date wheel have been repurposed to drive a 59-click Moonphase disc instead. This is a well-established technique used to adapt slim movements for Moonphase watches, similar to the approach Sarpaneva employs with the Soprod A10 in its K3 Guilloche and other models.
The Miyota 9015 is a robust, dependable automatic movement that has proven itself over time. It’s known for keeping accurate time, being easy to service, and offering cost-effective replacement options if needed, making it a practical choice for everyday wear.
Selten has also customized the rotor for this model, which features the brand’s logo and an engraved brand name in gold at the bottom. This custom rotor enhances the visual appeal of the movement, giving it a distinctive and polished aesthetic. In terms of performance, the two prototypes I tested showed solid results on my time-grapher, with readings of +7 seconds per day and +4 seconds per day, respectively. These are entirely acceptable rates for a mechanical movement in this class.
On The Wrist
The 39mm diameter and 45.5mm lug-to-lug distance make this watch very comfortable on my 6.75″ wrist. Its proportions strike a great balance, with a silhouette that should remind you of the Selten Series 00 Meteorite. However, the feeling on the wrist is very different, largely thanks to its svelte 11.55mm thickness. This reduced thickness, combined with a concave and polished bezel, ensures a more refined and unobtrusive fit compared to its predecessor.
One of my main critiques of the Series 00 was its bulkiness for what is essentially a dress watch, which detracted a bit from its overall comfort. Selten has effectively addressed this concern with this new model, delivering a watch that’s visually striking yet far more wearable and genre appropriate. The sleek profile is equally impressive aesthetically and offers a significant improvement in comfort.
The included curved-end leather strap, tapering from 20mm at the lugs to 16mm at the buckle, is another high point. Made by Hasnobounds, a sister brand of Selten, the strap exudes quality and complements the watch well. The fact that this brand is linked to Leonardo Tsai’s wife adds a personal touch, and the craftsmanship is evident throughout.
Bracelet
While the bracelet design closely mirrors that of the Series 00, with polished end links adding a touch of dressy luxury, its function feels less essential to the overall wear-ability of this model. The twin-trigger butterfly clasp is smoothly integrated and adds to the refined feel, but unlike the Series 00, the watch doesn’t rely on the bracelet to balance out the case. I found that either the strap or bracelet works well, though I personally lean toward the strap for a more comfortable, versatile fit. One drawback is the lack of tool-free micro-adjustment on the bracelet, which would have been a welcome addition for collectors seeking easy, on-the-go fine-tuning.
In terms of build quality and finishing, the bracelet is good and doesn’t leave much room for improvement. The end link fitment is quite good with little to no wiggle. The design integrates seamlessly with the case with matching finishing. The polished center links are executed well and the brushed links are evenly finished with a comfortable touch and sufficient room between links to avoid hair pulling.
Wrapping Up
Overall, I thoroughly enjoyed reviewing and photographing these two watches. The attention to detail is impressive, and the materials used – particularly the mother of pearl guilloche dial – are both unique and visually captivating. The inclusion of a tantalum moon disc adds a playful yet exotic touch to the design, and the updated case is a marked improvement, offering a more refined and comfortable wearing experience.
In my opinion, the Kickstarter pricing is reasonable for the level of quality, finishing, and materials on offer. Even the final MSRP feels justified given the craftsmanship and attention to detail. If you choose to back this project, based on my experience with these prototypes, I believe you’ll be pleased with the final product.
As for critiques, my only issue is the lack of adjust-ability on the bracelet (while also acknowledging that most dress watches with bracelets like this don’t have any). I’m someone who values on-the-fly adjust-ability, and the absence of this feature usually means the bracelet I would sparingly use it or not use it at all. But, this is a relatively minor drawback in an otherwise well-executed release. The M1 Moonphase also addresses some of the concerns I had with the Series 00, such as the smaller crown and the bulkier case, making this a more refined and balanced offering from Selten. And I think those aspects are a lot more important than the bracelet. I look forward to seeing how this product line grows – I’m sure there are exciting new dials and materials in the works already!
