Disclaimer: this video/review was not sponsored by Baltic or any other entity.
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Video
Review
Baltic, though not the elder statesman of the microbrand universe, has quickly ascended to become one of the standout names in a crowded field. In the relatively brief period since its inception, Baltic has arguably transcended the microbrand label, establishing physical storefronts in both Paris and London, and employing marketing strategies that rival those of much larger entities. This aggressive and thoughtful approach to branding and product development suggests that Baltic is not merely a fleeting presence but a significant player positioning themselves for long term success in the watchmaking world.
My personal journey with Baltic began with a Blue Gilt Aquascaphe in 2019, marking my first foray into microbrand watches at a time when I was still grasping the concept itself – a term that, to this day, eludes a clear definition within the industry. Since that initial acquisition, I’ve had the opportunity to review several of Baltic’s offerings, including the HMS 002, MR01, and the Peter Auto Tricompax, witnessing firsthand their consistent delivery of excellent design at reasonable prices.
Interestingly, early criticisms of Baltic’s pricing seem almost quaint in retrospect. I remember a time on Watchuseek when Etienne Malec, the brand’s founder, transparently defended his pricing strategies, a move I found impressive for its honesty. Now, in 2024, considering the broader market’s (somewhat illogical) pricing trends, Baltic’s offerings arguably represent even greater value for money than they did four years ago, standing out not just among other microbrands but also when compared to larger, more established names that have seen significant price hikes.
Setting pricing discussions aside, our focus today is on the Baltic Hermetique Glacier in white – a recent limited edition release. Priced at approximately $760, this watch exemplifies Baltic’s ability to blend appealing design, excellent marketing, and value for money, continuing to build on the brand’s impressive trajectory in the watch industry.
Let’s check it out!
Case
The case is made of stainless steel, and presents a modest size with a 37mm diameter, 46mm lug-to-lug width, 11mm height, and a 20mm lug width. Its design follows the familiar Baltic blueprint, mirroring the aesthetic found across much of the brand’s lineup. This familiarity breeds a sense of déjà vu, leaving me somewhat unenthused due to the repetitive silhouette seen across various models over the years, with the exception of the new Prismic, which I’ve yet to experience.
A notable, though perhaps divisive, feature of this design is the recessed crown. Drawing parallels with Christopher Ward’s retractable crown in the C63 Sealander Elite, I admire the ergonomic rationale behind this choice, despite its minor practical drawback. Specifically, manually winding the watch becomes notably cumbersome due to the crown’s design – while its 5mm diameter integrates well with the 11mm case, the slim 1.2mm thickness challenges a secure grip in its initial (winding) position. That said, once the crown is pulled out, time-setting proves straightforward, aligning with the operation of conventional crowns. The argument could be made that frequent manual winding isn’t typically necessary for an automatic watch, mitigating this concern to some extent.
The watch is equipped with a double domed sapphire crystal, adding a touch of vintage charm through edge distortion of the dial. The solid, screwed-down case back contributes to a water resistance rating of up to 150m – an impressive feat for a watch without a screw-down crown, highlighting Baltic’s ability to blend aesthetic considerations with functional achievements. The overall build quality and finishing of the case has improved quite a bit since my first Aquascaphe, and I think a lot of enthusiasts will be happy to see drilled through lugs on this one too.
Dial
The dial is unequivocally the highlight of this watch – the white dial variant of the Glacier LE series, with its counterpart featuring a black dial but sharing the same captivating texture. The dial sports a brushed outer railway-style minute track with white printing, upon which sit 3D luminous markers: circular markers and numerals at the cardinal points, and batons elsewhere. My enthusiasm for this advanced luminous marker technology is well-documented, as I’ve often praised its superior performance over traditional printed or filled lume elements on this website and in my videos.
A polished metal ridge elegantly delineates the outer minute track from the inner textured dial, with the long baton markers creating a visual bridge between these two segments. The interplay of light from the lumed elements casting shadows over the steel, moat-like ring encircling the textured surface, showcases Baltic’s meticulous attention to detail and visual complexity.
The textured dial itself is a spectacle, featuring softly undulating surfaces and crisp edges that conjure images of gently cracked ice. The brand’s logo, positioned below the 12 o’clock marker, and the watch’s name above 6 o’clock, are printed on specially flattened / raised sections of the textured surface, suggesting that similar care is taken beneath the applied lumed numerals. The level of detail in the printing and overall dial design is particularly impressive, especially considering the watch’s price point.
Accompanying the dial are syringe-style hands, polished and equipped with solid blocks of Super-Luminova, ensuring luminosity is perfectly matched across all dial elements- a feat not always accomplished by other brands, which often opt for high-performance lume in isolated dial areas. Baltic’s execution here is flawless, addressing a common critique I have with many watches that fall short in this aspect – the Tudor Pelagos 39 for example.
In summary, the dial is nothing short of stunning, making any other potential shortcomings of the watch seem entirely acceptable. Baltic’s ability to offer state-of-the-art luminosity, a beautifully textured dial rich in detail, all at a price comfortably under $1000, is an impressive achievement that sets this watch apart in the market.
Lume
Movement
In the past, you might have heard me express a preference for the ETA2824 or SW200 movements over the Miyota 9039, citing the former’s superior consistency in accuracy. However, my priorities and perspective have evolved over time. While it’s true that the Miyota 9 series may not match the ETA2824 and its equivalents in terms of consistent accuracy, I’ve come to appreciate the 9 series for their reliability and fewer complications—particularly, the absence of windmilling rotor issues that sometimes plague the ETA2824-2/SW200-1 counterparts.
Admittedly, the Miyota movements are somewhat noisier due to their uni-directional winding mechanism, but this is a characteristic that has become less of a concern to me. While I could entertain the idea of Baltic exploring the La Joux Perret G100 – a Swiss-made counterpart to the Miyota 9 series – I’m also mindful of the potential cost implications. Adopting the G100 could likely lead to an unwelcome price hike of $150-200 for the watches, a consideration that warrants careful thought about the balance between movement origin, performance, and overall watch affordability.
On The Wrist
Wearing this watch has left me with mixed feelings. At times, it feels slightly too small on my wrist, yet at other moments, it seems perfectly proportionate – a dichotomy that keeps me second-guessing these proportions. This ambivalence might be because of my lack of experience with the sizing typical of vintage watches, which this model appears to emulate in style and proportions.
With a case diameter that aligns with the compactness of other 37mm watches, its straight lugs stretch out to a 46mm lug-to-lug width, which is notably longer compared to other watches of similar diameter. On my 6.75″ wrist, it looks and wears adequately, but I personally remain unconvinced by the smaller watch aesthetic. An attempt to see if it would suit my wife, who has a 5.5″ wrist, resulted in the watch’s straight and lengthy lugs causing an overhang, which wasn’t ideal either.
The bracelet (typically a $120 upcharge) construction is solid, offering a modern take on the classic beads of rice style, which inadvertently makes the watch feel slightly larger – a feature that might be more appealing to those with larger wrists. Despite lacking on-the-fly micro-adjustment, the clasp is robust, featuring a dual push-button release mechanism. The links move smoothly, and the overall finish of the bracelet is commendable, adding a significant value to the watch’s wearability and aesthetic.
Wrapping Up
This Baltic watch is truly beautiful, boasting an ice-cold textured dial that not only captivates visually but also features luminous elements capable of rivaling any top-tier sports watch. These luminous details enhance both the functionality and aesthetics of the dial, injecting an impressive depth into its already striking dial texture. The case is sleek, with good build quality and finish. Having purchased and reviewed several Baltic watches, I find myself longing for a bit of innovation in case design though. While the brand’s dials and complications have seen remarkable evolution, the case designs are beginning to feel somewhat repetitive, perhaps hinting at the potential for Baltic to apply their evident design talents towards freshening up this aspect of their watches. There are plenty of magnificent vintage watch cases to draw inspiration from!
When it comes to value, this watch is exceptionally priced, considering the design, meticulous attention to detail, build quality, and the movement’s specifications. Although this particular limited edition has sold out, it’s clear Baltic isn’t short on innovative ideas for future dials. If their track record is anything to go by, I anticipate their pricing will remain fair, ensuring Baltic continues to offer exceptional value in the ever-evolving watch market.
