Disclaimer: this video/review was not sponsored by Horizon or any other entity. Horizon will be sending me a production unit when these watches start to ship. This is a review of a prototype unit.
Video
Review
Horizon is a relatively new microbrand in the watchmaking industry, co-founded in 2022 by Fred Bekher and Sugi Kusumadi. While Horizon is relatively new on the scene, Bekher is not; he‘s a seasoned veteran in the microbrand space, having designed watches for numerous brands such as Zelos, Arcturus, Velhelm, Gruppo Gamma, and Feynman Timepieces over the past decade. Given his extensive experience, it’s somewhat surprising it took this long for him to launch his own venture. Thankfully, the wait has been worthwhile – Horizon has unveiled three designs over the past two years, each distinctively crafted with a coherent narrative that spans the collection. And Kusumadi is no stranger to the micro-brand world either, and runs a successful micro-brand centric watch store in Singapore called Red Army Watches.
All three models draw inspiration from the literary works of Jules Verne, with design elements that echo the adventurous tales found in Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. The focus of today’s review is the Nemo, Horizon’s latest release following their debut launch, the -N-. This model advances the thematic concept introduced by its predecessor, offering a more refined and elegant design complete with attractive dial options and an excellent bracelet.
The timing of this review is sadly not ideal due to travel commitments, and in the interim, the Kickstarter campaign for the Nemo has already successfully concluded with 113 backers and roughly $90,000 USD of capital. However, I would suspect that Horizon will release additional units once the pre-order campaign units are dispatched in August of this year. Initially offered at around $700 USD on Kickstarter, I anticipate future pricing for the Nemo to remain in a similar range.
Let’s check it out!
Case
The Nemo showcases a meticulously crafted case that epitomizes the watch’s design philosophy. Measuring 40mm in diameter with a 38mm bezel, a lug-to-lug span of 47mm, and a height of 12mm, this watch strikes a balance between presence and comfort. The case is constructed from 316L stainless steel and features a multi-part design that allows for a sophisticated array of finishing techniques, particularly on the lugs, where a careful mix of satin brushed and high polished surfaces highlight the intricate craftsmanship. The watch has a lug width of 22mm, which further adds to its bold presence on wrist.
This model follows the aesthetic foundation laid by its predecessors (the -N-) yet advances the design with a sleeker profile that makes the case my personal highlight of the watch. The lugs have a meticulous combination of satin brushed and high polished surfaces and edges, laid out in a manner that would not have been possible with a single piece mid case construction.
The bezel opts for a more traditional approach with a coin edge grip enhancing the 120-click unidirectional dive mechanism. It is capped with a fully lumed insert under a sapphire layer reminiscent of vintage Bakelite divers, combining classic style with modern functionality. The bezel is remarkably user-friendly, offering ease of operation with minimal backplay.
Further enhancing its utility, the watch features a vintage-style boxed sapphire crystal adorned with ample anti-reflective coating, subtly distorting at the edges for an added touch of character. The mid-case flows seamlessly into an elegantly designed crown guard that protects a sizable 6.85mm screw-down crown, ensuring ease of use and reinforcing the watch’s dive-ready credentials.
On the reverse, the solid screw-in case back consolidates the robust design, affirming its 200m water resistance rating. Overall, the case of the Horizon Nemo is not just a container for the movement within but it is a work of art, and it is clearly the work of an expert designer with real world experience in bringing watch designs to life. The combination of curves, edges, finishing styles and materials is perfectly executed.
Dial
The Nemo skillfully balances originality with a sense of familiarity, making it appealing to those who may typically shy away from overly experimental designs. Its case and bezel offer a conventional appearance that provides a grounding effect, perhaps making it more accessible to a wider audience. However, the dial of the Nemo boldly narrates its own unique story, with each element contributing to a distinctly original design that captures the watch’s thematic essence effectively.
Available in seven dial and bezel configurations, the Nemo presents a diverse range of aesthetic choices. This variety includes three distinctive dial textures and seven different colors. I chose to review the Coral variant, notable for its vertically brushed metallic dial that shifts dramatically in color from a cool metallic grey to a warm bronze under different lighting conditions, paired with a grey bezel insert.
The dial design is lovely, featuring a well-executed brushed metallic base and an outer minute track designed to enhance legibility, marking five-minute intervals and individual seconds or minutes in a clear, black print. The design highlights include boldly applied hour markers at the cardinal points, styled to resemble sea shells, fitting the nautical theme perfectly. These are complemented by large, circular maxi-style hour markers that enhance the overall readability.
The branding is subtly integrated, with the logo positioned below the 12 o’clock marker and the watch name above the 6 o’clock index, both printed with precision. Perhaps the most innovative feature of the Nemo is the date window at the 4 o’clock position. This isn’t just a typical date display; it mimics the height and dimensions of the hour markers and matches the color of the indices, with a font that harmonizes with that on the bezel, showcasing exceptional attention to detail and design coherence. Brilliant stuff!
The hand set is well designed to match the oversized hour markers, with thick metal borders and large luminous plots. The finishing on the hands is very good, and together with the indices the dial manages to exhibit various appearances through the day and based on lighting. The seconds hand has a lumed lollipop style element, and the overall legibility of the dial is excellent.
Lume
The watch features extensive use of lume, with the bezel insert fully lumed alongside all hour indices and hands. A standout feature is the lumed date wheel, which aligns with the lume on the indices to maintain visibility and design consistency even in the dark (side note: could this be the most perfect asymmetric date window design integration of all time? I think so.). This particular attention to detail underscores a deep understanding of watches and design, and appeals strongly to enthusiasts who value both form and function.
The potency of the Nemo’s lume is notable. In a timelapse featured in my video, the Nemo goes head-to-head with other well-lumed models like the Zelos Helmsman 10th Anniversary, Selten Salvage Bronze, and Christopher Ward Twelve Ti. Among these contenders, the Horizon Nemo stands out for its brightness and longevity. So this watch is certainly going to make lume junkies very happy.
Movement
I’ll echo my thoughts (word for word) from my review of the Archimede Outdoor Protect 39 which is one among many watches that uses the Sellita SW200-1. It is a well-regarded Swiss Made alternative to the hard-to-acquire ETA2824-2. Its reputation as a reliable performer is well-earned, with a track record that speaks to its durability and accuracy. Beyond its proven track record, the SW200-1 is notably user-friendly when it comes to servicing and repairs, and even its replacement costs are considered reasonable over the long term. In my personal experience, I’ve had numerous watches powered by this movement. While it’s true that some units might experience the windmilling rotor issue, this is easily (and also involves replacing a relatively low cost component) does not detract from the overall accuracy of these movements. They are, in many ways, the workhorses of the watch movement world, and it is a perfectly reasonable choice for a watch in this price range.
On The Wrist
The Horizon Nemo is thoughtfully designed with a 40mm case and a 48mm lug-to-lug width, ensuring a comfortable fit for a variety of wrist sizes. Its bold yet moderate size gives it a distinct presence that is likely to appeal to many, fitting exceptionally well on my own 6.75″ wrist without feeling overpowering. However, when worn on the bracelet, the watch takes on a broader profile. The bracelet’s effective span can reach up to 58mm at its widest, suggesting that an ideal wrist span of at least 56mm is preferable to comfortably accommodate its more expansive presence.
But for those with larger wrists, the bracelet enhances the wearing experience significantly. It beautifully echoes design elements from the 60s and 70s, complemented by a finely crafted adjustable butterfly-style clasp that allows for about 2.5mm of extension on each side, ensuring a perfect fit. The bracelet’s construction and finish are remarkable, especially considering the watch’s price point.
Additionally, the Nemo also comes with a high-quality FKM rubber strap, providing a practical and comfortable alternative for those with smaller wrists or who prefer a different style. This inclusion ensures that the watch remains accessible and comfortable for all potential wearers, allowing everyone to appreciate its design and functionality without compromising on comfort.
Wrapping Up
Reviewing the Nemo has been a particularly gratifying experience, embodying the very essence of what excites me about the micro-brand watch industry. This watch stands out as a sincere expression of creativity, crafted not merely as a commercial product but as a realization of a genuine passion. It exemplifies the kind of creativity and individuality that emerges when designers are free to actualize their visions without the constraints of mass-market appeal. It didn’t come to life with the sole purpose of being sold. It exists because it was an idea compelling enough to one person (or two, in this case) to be willed into a product – and now its up to you to decide if you want one or not. It wasn’t tailor made to suit anybody but the two names behind the brand. And that’s the kind of freedom and flexibility available to microbrands that they clearly don’t use enough of. Memorable designs are always honest ones.
That said, the design, beyond its creative origins, is complemented by impressive build quality and finishing. Considering the level of detail, the pricing feels reasonable, aligning well with what one might expect from a passionate, emerging brand. Personally, I have become quite a fan of both the watch and the Horizon brand. Their approach to watchmaking not only refreshes the landscape but also sparks anticipation for their future creations. I am eagerly looking forward to adding the Nemo to my collection and seeing where Horizon’s distinct creative path leads next.
