Disclaimer: This watch was sent to me to review, and I do not need to return it after my review is complete. This watch was given to me without restriction and is not contingent upon a particular outcome for my review. All opinions here are my own, and Selten Watches had no influence over the opinions stated here.
Selten Series 00.00 Natural Meteorite – https://seltenwatch.com/collections/series-00/products/series-00-00?variant=41559245815940
Straps Featured
Delugs Black Rubberised Leather (Togo) Signature Strap: https://delugs.com/products/black-rubberised-leather-togo-signature-strap
Video
Review
Selten, a name that might be new to some but familiar to those who frequent microbrand Facebook groups, is a brand birthed from the mind of Hong Kong-based Leonardo Tsai. To the best of my knowledge, Selten made its debut in 2021 with the launch of their Series 00 and Series 01 watches, both featuring meteorite dials that captured the attention (and wallets) of roughly 750 backers on Kickstarter, collectively pledging around $275,000 USD. Following this success, Selten introduced the Salvage series, a collection of diver watches with uniquely patinated dials, which also achieved its funding goal with support from about 175 backers raising just over $80,000 USD.
Selten’s design philosophy is particularly notable for its emphasis on creativity and innovation, making rare materials and artisanal designs more accessible at this price point – a commendable feat that’s not frequently seen in the market. Considering the fact that generic microbrand divers have a higher likelihood of success, taking on more challenging and risky designs like this one reflects a genuine passion for the hobby. And Leonardo gave me a brief glimpse of the watches he is working on currently, and I can confidently say that Selten is a brand to keep an eye on.
Today, we will dive into the details of the Series 00.00 in Natural Meteorite, which stands out with its elegant non-luminous Breguet-style hands and is priced at $750 with the bracelet. Additionally, Selten offers other variations such as the Aventure dial and models with luminous hands and indices, catering to diverse preferences.
Let’s check it out!
Case
The case of this watch features a 40mm diameter stainless steel construction that comfortably measures 47mm lug-to-lug, stands 13mm tall, and supports a 20mm lug width. Notably, it includes dual lug holes to accommodate both curved and straight end straps (more brands need to do this). The array of finishes on the case – radial brushing on the bezel, vertical satinated brushing on the top of the midcase, horizontal brushing on the sides, and high polished accents on the bezel flank, lug accents, and the back of the case, and a matte finish on the caseback – demonstrates a masterful use of virtually every typical case finishing technique, tastefully executed.
The bezel is notably thick for a watch that leans towards a dressier aesthetic, but the exceptional level of finishing, especially the precise radial brushing likely done with a lapping machine, draws the eye and underscores the attention to detail. The overall design and proportions of the case exude more of a sporty vibe than a traditional dress watch, reminding me somewhat of the robust and iconic Rolex Oyster Perpetual case. This robustness is balanced by the ergonomic curvature of the lugs, which helps offset the case’s thickness and enhances comfort on the wrist.
The watch’s lugs have finely polished outer bevels and integrate seamlessly with the bracelet through smoothly transitioning end links. A subtle yet unexpected design touch is the engraved plate under the end links, where the serial number is discreetly placed. However, the 5mm crown is slightly small for a 13mm thick case, and its polished knurling, combined with restrained proportions, can make winding somewhat cumbersome.
Equipped with a sapphire crystal and caseback, both treated with ample anti-reflective coating, the watch has a water resistance rating of 50m. While the robust case design might suggest a higher water resistance would be fitting, the provided 50m is ample for most daily uses. What truly stands out is the level of finishing across the case, particularly the bezel, and how well the finishing of the case transitions to the end links and the rest of the bracelet – a detail that is often overlooked even by larger, more established brands (typically the mid tier Swiss luxury brands that operate under a conglomerate and outsource case and bracelet manufacturing to different vendors).
Dial
Upon receiving this watch, the first thing that struck me was its intricate dial – a testament to the dial making experience that runs in the family of Selten’s owner, Leonardo Tsai. This background brings a deeper understanding and appreciation of the complexity and creativity evident in the Series 00 and the Patina Series. The Series 00 is quite a complicated dial, even if measuring complexity by the sheer number of parts required to assemble the dial.
The dial features three distinct layers: a base of natural meteorite, a surrounding metal ring where the steel indices are applied, and a semi-opaque minute track layer that hosts printed minute markers. There’s a steel nameplate just under the 12 o’clock index with polished bevels and a brushed top, where the brand name is elegantly engraved and filled with black enamel-like paint – a detail that extends to the hour indices as well.
These indices are sharp and rectangular, with dual markers at 12 o’clock and a slightly shorter marker at 6 o’clock. Although generally well-finished, I noted some minor residues and dust, which, while not uncommon at this price point, suggests room for improvement in quality control. The Breguet-style hour hand features a brushed circular aperture, and both hour and minute hands are polished and blued, enhancing legibility despite their slim profile. The seconds hand is polished, with a brushed center stack, an elegant detail often overlooked by even high-end brands.
A standout feature is the day-night indicator above the 6 o’clock index, beautifully integrated into the meteorite base with a polished circular frame. The indicator itself is a textured grainy blue plate with meteorite segments symbolizing the sun and moon (a darker meteorite segment for the moon, and a brighter segment for the sun), complemented by relief-engraved stars that catch light and subtly ‘shine’ adding a dynamic and captivating element to the dial. While the level finishing and detail might not rival the day night indicators of Kari Voutilainen and Kudoke, it certainly captures the charm of those designs with plenty of detail and complexity that is typically unheard of at this price.
Overall, this dial has captured the essence of artisanal or boutique watchmaking, paying homage to esteemed figures like Kari Voutilainen while offering something distinctively accessible. The level of detail and creativity imbued in this dial makes it not just a component of time telling but a piece of art, delivering exceptional value and a unique aesthetic that will certainly be well received by those that appreciate intricate dial designs.
Movement
The watch is powered by a Miyota 9132 automatic movement, a member of the well known and reliable 9 series family. Notably, the 9132 was selected for this model due to its 24-hour display positioned at 6 o’clock, and a date complication that is ignored, resulting in a ghost date position that is entirely acceptable for the price in my opinion. If I’m not mistaken, Miyota doesn’t make this in a no-date variant either, so I’ll happily take a ghost date position over a date complication that potentially ruins the beautiful symmetry of this dial.
A common critique of the 9 series movements involves the noise from the spinning rotor, attributed to its uni-directional winding system. However, this particular instance is quieter than usual, which can likely be attributed to the watch’s robust case construction that possibly muffles the rotor noise effectively.
Visually, the movement stands out with a complex, skeletonized rotor that incorporates the brand’s logo / motif, enhanced with côtes de Genève finishing and the brand’s named engraved and elegantly highlighted with gold paint. While I haven’t measured its performance on a timegrapher, the watch has demonstrated impressive accuracy, maintaining single-digit deviations over several days of continuous wear.
On The Wrist & Bracelet
The 40mm diameter and 47mm lug-to-lug measurement of this watch find a harmonious fit on my 6.75″ wrist. While the 13mm thickness and its somewhat slab-sided design might appear daunting initially, the curvature of the lugs coupled with seamlessly integrated end links ensures the watch sits comfortably and maintains a balanced presence on the wrist. When paired with a leather strap, the thickness of the watch becomes more pronounced, yet the inclusion of a second set of lug holes provides flexibility, allowing for a more tailored fit with a curved strap that can enhance the overall aesthetic and comfort.
Transitioning to the bracelet, it mirrors the excellent brushed finish of the case and features polished center links that add a refined touch. The links articulate smoothly, contributing to the bracelet’s comfort once properly sized. However, adjusting the bracelet using the pin and collar system presents a challenge, proving to be time-consuming – a simpler screwed link system would have been a more user-friendly alternative.
The bracelet is equipped with a butterfly-style clasp that includes an elegantly engraved foldover center link showcasing the brand’s motif, secured by a push-button mechanism that ensures reliability. While the butterfly clasp aligns well with the watch’s dressier aspects, offering a regular dual push-button release foldover clasp with on-the-fly micro-adjustment could provide additional practicality, especially for those who value adjustability over a sleeker profile.
Wrapping Up
This watch gets a double thumbs up from me, thanks to the excellent level of detail it incorporates within this price bracket. The dial unquestionably takes center stage, yet the meticulous finishing on the case and the overall thoughtful design are equally commendable. Selten has demonstrated a commitment to quality throughout the entire product experience, right down to the thoughtful packaging and unboxing experience, which enhances the overall value.
In conversations with Leonardo, the brand’s founder, I’ve got some information about upcoming projects that leaves me highly optimistic about its future. Selten is a brand that isn’t shy about trying something new and has impressed with its releases so far, making it a microbrand to keep an eye on in the coming years.
If I were to offer any criticism, it would be to explore ways to refine the case design, possibly slimming it down or altering the mid-case to give the illusion of a sleeker profile. Additionally, while the use of pins and collars in the bracelet links is not uncommon—even in high-end watches from brands like H. Moser & Cie and Grand Seiko—it might be worth considering switching to screwed-in links for ease of adjustment, although this is more a matter of personal preference.
Overall, if you’re drawn to this watch’s aesthetic, you’re likely to find it offers substantial value for the price. The dial is particularly striking in person, and the watch’s combination of dressy and sporty elements makes it a versatile and interesting choice.
